By 9 in the morning, the Cours Saleya market is in full voice: flowers, socca sizzling, producers who have held the same stall for decades. Come hungry, taste as you walk, and remember it is closed on Mondays, when an antiques market takes its place.
The ochre lanes behind the market hide baroque churches, tiny artisan workshops and the loveliest ice cream debate in France. Do not navigate; wander. The Old Town rewards the aimless.
The hill between the port and the Old Town offers the postcard panorama: the sweep of the Baie des Anges, terracotta roofs, the waterfall gardens. Take the free lift or the stairs, and time it before the midday light flattens.
Walk it as the English aristocrats did, slowly, sea on one side, belle époque façades on the other. Stop at the Negresco for its story, then reward yourself with a swim or a rented blue chair.
The Port Lympia quarter has become one of the city's most pleasant corners for an evening drink. A pastis or a glass of Bellet, the local wine few visitors ever taste, closes the day the Niçoise way.
This exact rhythm, market, Old Town, panoramas, is my most booked short experience: 2.5 hours of guided walking for €340 per group, which leaves your afternoon free for the beach or a village. The itinerary above works beautifully on your own too; the difference a guide makes is the layer of stories the walls do not tell.
These private experiences are the natural next step after this article. Prices are per group, never per person.
One well-planned day covers the market, the Old Town, Castle Hill and the Promenade comfortably. Two days let you add the Chagall or Matisse museums and the port quarter without hurrying.
Tuesday to Sunday mornings for the flower and food market. On Mondays it becomes a good antiques market instead.
The historic heart is entirely walkable: market, Old Town, Castle Hill and the Promenade sit within a 20-minute radius on foot.